In to the dessert

Today found us leaving Bethlehem and heading into the dessert along the road Jesus often talked about from Jerusalem to Jericho . The topography changes so quickly and suddenly you are out into the dry hills and arid landscape. There is nothing friendly about the topography. It is constant hills and valleys and unforgiving . As we drive by Bedouin nomads I wonder at such a harsh existence.

We travel to the dead sea, an area once held by the Jordanians but was annexed by Israel in the six day war. Remnants of the Jordanian Army are scattered about among the planted date palm groves- a huge industry . Pits are removed before selling so that they cannot be grown by anyone else as competition.

Following the dead sea we make our way to Masada - a fort/palace built by king Herod around 31bce. It was a place of retreat build high upon a mountainous rock plateau that could be used as a fortified military retreat or simply a holiday palace. It's store house held enough food and water to sustain 1000 people for 4 years. An incredible architectural and technological marvel. Abandoned (mostly) after Herods death in 4bce it was taken over by Jewish rebels after the destruction of Jerusalem and its temple around the year 70ce . They and their families were there about 3 years until the roman troops surrounded them. They began to build a ramp I order to siege the rebels. Over a 5 month period they held them off while watching the building of this ramp. When It was clear that they Romans would breach the walls the next morning, the 960 residents were part of a mass murder suicide by the Jewish leaders so that they would not become slaves to the Romans. This has become an important part of the Israeli identity and new soldiers are sworn I at the top of Masada before they serve in the army. A propaganda film about Nobel character of the rebels and their refusal to be conquered by any oppressor is shown to everyone before you enter . This site was high on my list of things to see while here so I enjoyed every minute of being there though was disappointed that we were rushed for time as I would have like to have hiked up instead of taking the tram.

From there we journey to Qumran - the discovery site of the Dead sea scrolls. Remnants of the essence movement have been unearthed below the caves in the cliffs where the scrolls were found encased in jars by accident when a Bedouin shepherd was looking for a lost goat. 11 caves in all have been found to have within them about 900 scrolls or fragments of such . Some of them are ancient copies of biblical books but most are writings of the Essene movement - their beliefs and rituals . The caves are amazing to see and the imagination is certainly engaged by the site.

With the sun then working hard to peak out beneath the cloud cover, we headed for a dip in the dead sea. The salination is about 33% and it is impossible not to float. This area is 400 meters below sea level. Oxygen levels are high and the healing properties of the sea are espoused my many so there were lots of people to be found. It was a very interesting and refreshing experience . From there we headed back to Jericho to sleep for the night.