Galapagos Islands

Today we make a trip leaving Quito very early in the morning to head to the Galapagos Islands which while they are still considered part of Ecuador, they are over 1200 km away from Quito. Our luggage is scanned very carefully and sealed as we head to these islands which are a highly protected sanctuary. Our flight is 2.5 hours and school has just ended in Quito and our flight is over half full of very excited children under 12 who are very loud and under supervised. The flight does not end soon enough. We get off and are screened once again and our entry taxes confirmed. Cost is about $100/day for foreigners arriving by plane. The cost for those who arrive on their persoanl luxury boats is about $1000/per person/ per day. We board a bus that takes us to the edge of the island the airport is on, board a ferry for 10 mins then board another bus that drives us the length is Santa Cruz Island to the end that has the town site and hotels. It's about a 40 min drive .

We meet our two new tour guides for the day, Farydde and Isabella who orient us to island through out the afternoon. We visit craters that are so deep you cannot see the bottom though they are filled with vegetation. These craters have an effect of the weather patterns on the island. We drive by trees loaded with mandarin oranges, grapefruit and lemons. The cool season has begun so weather tends to be overcast, a stable 20- 22 degrees with light rain occassionally. Most of the rain comes in the warm season ( dec - april) so begitation has begun to dry andnturn brown. After dropping off our bags at the hotel, we walk to the Darwin exploration centre which has been focusing on reestablishing the tortoise population. Prior to the late 18 C there were approximately 250,000 of Toroises populating the various island and about 15 species. When protection and a hatchery were established to try and reverse the empending distinction, the total population was down to about 16000, 4 species were extinct, and another had only 14 left of its species. With the result of some remarkable research and diligence, they have managed to bring the total population up to 60,000 and even the threatened population of 14 has been brought up to 1200.

What is most interesting to me about this is that decimation of the tortoise population occurred mostly as a result of the pirate and other large ships that stopped here at the beginning of the 19th century who would take these large creatures to serve as fresh food for the long voyages. They can live for up to 6 mos without food so provided what seemed like a splendid option for ships without refrigeration. However, the cost and the work of trying to repair this "overuse" fell to people several generations later. I am so fearful about what our current generations blindness about nature and the unfaithful stewardship practices that we have employed will become huge costs and burdens for generations after ours. The resources used by the populations of the 19th C were but a fraction of the mammoth appetite we currently have. I weep for the continuing legacy that we are leaving them.

The interplay between the environment and the ecological balance is certainly an interesting thing. Some species that were introduced by the domestication of these islands several centuries ago also affect the natural balance. Some of the greatest threats are rats which came on the ships, and pigs, cats and dogs that are feral and are unnatural predictors. Some things that get introduced by nature result in adaptations and some don't . Same goes for the human footprint. Visiting nature where things have been preserved and humans can leave and take mostly photos results in creatures that function quite well and seem to both tolerate and ignore human beings presence. That has been cool to see. And amazing to see what we can learn by observing rather than consuming nature. An important lesson to be learned for sure.

On turning 50

I've always been one who believes that celebrating decade birthdays is important and one should never be depressed about growing older if we consider the alternative. We who grow older have been granted a privilege and we should embrace it as such. So as I turned 50 here I Ecuador two events caused me to be reminded of how simple things are sometimes the most important.

In all the years, countries and places I've travelled in the world, I've never had much more than a tummy upset that couldn't be cured with a bit of a fast and some imodium. However, on the eve of my birthday, I found myself in such pain abdominally that I had two visit the local doctor and clinic at the nearby village. Medical care is universal and free throughout Ecuador and with the help of the translator, it get some medication and am on my way. Kindly the staff and students have been preparing a surprise song and cake for my birthday at supper as we will be on the road for my actual birthday . However my pain is significant and I cannot join them though I hate to disappoint everyone. The medication is supposed to relieve the pain in less than two hours. Three hours go by and the pain has not changed. ( no its not my appendix ! Stop worrying all my medical friends and family ! ). A phone call is placed to a Dr in Canada and I chat with her via a satellite phone and she adjust the dosage of the medication.

4 hours later the pain finally breaks at 2:30 am. Two hours later a massive thunder and lightning storm rolls through the area and I'm treated to a spectacular display of light and sound - one of my favorite things! And so, for my 50th, I got my health back and a grand display of nature. What a great way to begin the day and to be reminded of the importance of some very basic things in life.

The ending of one journey in the Amazon and the beginning of another enroute to the Galapagos. Birthday cake, singing, kind words and wishes from the group I'm traveling with and from those back home make for a spectacular beginning to this next decade. I am truly blessed and I am filled with such feelings of gratitude today. Thank you all.

We shall party together soon. I promise !

Amazon time comes to an end

The last two days I the amazon have been full with many experiences.

Our mornings were consumed with working on finishing the foundation jobs we could, to get the project off to a very solid start . Day 4 found us back working in pouring rain which hindered the progress . Thankfully our final day is cloudy, hot and muggy but we are able to complete all those things that we set out to do. Many in the community are also out this day and much work is accomplished. Then comes the really hard part: Saying goodbye. It's always amazing to me how relationships can take a deep root in ones heart after such a short period of time. Many photos are taken on this day with children and adults whom we have worked side by side with . Tears are shed, games are played one last time together and some of the community children have prepared a special dance as a thank you to us. It's hard to leave and we will all want to follow the progress of this project.

It's clear to me as we depart the village for the last time that this experience has been transformational in the teens lives and it will shape their perception of the world, their place in it and choices they will make as individuals. The next steps of integrating will be important learning blocks for all of us. Me to We has done a very good job in providing resource people to guide this process and project as well as reflective journals. I continue to be impressed with many things about this organization and it's philosophical framework.

In the afternoons we visit a cocoa farm and learn about the economics of chocolate and export and Ecuador. In most cases, the farmers themselves see very little of the profit do the chocolate industry as the middlemen get most of the profits and the farmers bear all of the risk. The second afternoon has us visit the community Mondana, next to the Minga lodge where we are staying. We walk the short distance to this community and see its school, it health clinic and spend an hour with the women's cooperative where we are shown the techniques and the jungle resources that are used to make the handicrafts they sell. We get the opportunity to purchase from them as well. There is quite an age range of women involved in the cooperative and even a few men!

In the evening we have the opportunity to go an night walk to see some of the critters that only come out at night. This was one of the experiences that I was really looking forward to. We see some interesting bugs, spiders, frogs etc. but unfortunately no snakes which was what I was really hoping to see. The group was to large and noisy I think, for these timid creatures to be seen.

And so I leave the amazon learning many things. Leanings about the people who live in this region, their lifestyle and their hopes and dreams. Learnings about the environment here, it's diversity and it's fragility, the interdependence and the harshness of survival. Learnings about communities and the concept of Mingas for accomplishing community goals and projects. Learnings about how people change and grow by being challenged and being in relationship and how this makes an indelible impact. Learnings about spirituality and other ancient forms and the commonalities we share. Learnings about myself and where I'm willing to take risks and where I'm less inclined to do so. And even learning a little bit of Spanish- just a little though to my ongoing challenge with languages.

It has been a real privilege to be in this part of the world, to meet some incredible people, to form some new partnerships and to take away some new learnings. Another long bus ride back to Quito and then an early flight to the Galapagos in the morning ..

Project day 3, a visit with a shaman, and a night time jungle visit

In the morning the clouds hang low on the river but they are beginning to lift and we find ourselves heading out hopeful of some sun this morning as we head again to Bella Vista to continue our construction. Children are waiting on the shore for our arrival and we make really good progress. The sun comes out and at times it is very hot to be mixing cement and bending rebar. More relationships are developing and it's wonderful to see smiles and hear conversations as the day unfolds. One of the parents arrive mid morning with a wheel barrow full of oranges he had collected from the trees around the site to share with everyone working. We work an extra 1/2 hour today in order to finish some of cement work. Progress is going very well.

The same routine as the day before occurs as we return to the minga lodge: children swimming, boat singing and a refreshing breeze to cool us down before arriving for lunch. Lunch is a special treat today served on a leaf instead of a plate. Platters of palm heart and thistle salad, yucca root fries, and banana leaf steamed tilapia fish. Even Hannah was willing to try the fish and enjoyed it.

After lunch we head back down the river a ways to visit a local shaman. We are invited to take part on groups of 5 in a cleansing ritual that involves having tobacco smoke blown over us and then having the spirits and energy cleansed by being "swept" with a wand of yukka leaves. For many in the group, this is their first encounter with " energy " ritual. One person asks. " where do you believe the negative energy goes that you have gathered and swept clean of us? ". The question is met with a blank stare as the world view of the shaman cannot comprehend the worldview of student who does not consider the spirit world as a reality to everyday living. The ritual has many parallels to our First Nations Smudging rituals. I'm surprised that tobacco is used here as well. The cleansing ritual used on us is typically administered to children starting at birth and the regularly after that. Shamans in this area drink a tea with hallucinogenic properties at night at certain times of the year. It is during those times that they access visions, insight and contact with the spiritual world that enable them to be spiritual guides, mentors and protectors of their community. It is both a sacred and at times a dangerous profession. They come into possession of a power stone. The number of stones that a shaman has is directly related to the amount of power they posses. The number of stones they possess is rarely revealed though more than one is rare

Afterwards we get a chance to blow darts with a dart gun (a traditional hunting method) at a papaya that has been slice open and place on a stick as a moving target. Following a group picture with the shaman and his family, a spear throwing demonstration and an opportunity to buy some handmade crafts by the family, we head back to Minga lodge for supper .

We are invited before supper to a special cooking demonstration of an amazon delicacy and treat. A wrapped banana leaf package is unwrapped to reveal the biggest weevil larvae I've ever seen ! They are wiggling like crazy . An invitation is given to anyone who would like to try them raw first. One must bite down on their head and pinchers first so they don't bite the inside of your mouth. Two of the group give it a try ! Then the rest the group must squish their heads and threat them onto a stick where they are roasted and then tasted. A " special" treat and appetizer before dinner. It is said to taste like bacon, which I don't eat, so I forego the tasting this time.

After supper we go back into the jungle for a short walk at night to see some of the creatures whose sounds we hear at night. We see several different species of frogs, various bugs and moths, bats, tarantulas and the head of a tiny water snake. This is what I've been really looking forward to as I love the night creatures. I wish it could have been longer but it was cool to see what we did. It's a large group to take a night. I am hoping to go out another night with the guide alone. The incredible diversity of nature never ceases to fill me with awe and wonder. There is a huge sadness for me as I contemplate the level of destruction to this part of the world and indeed our planet as a whole . Every day 20 hectares of rainforest in the amazon is harvested. We have to find a way to end our human blindness to the plight of our ecosystem and planet. This is a spiritual issue as much as the energy issue the shaman is dealing with. We humans must stop compartmentalizing our lives and instead see the web of interconnectedness between our material world and our spiritual selves.

Bella Vista

Our day begins with a 7 am wake up call and we make our way to the dining "hall" for breakfast. We eat, get into our gear ( steel toe rubber boots, hard hats, safety glasses and gloves), don sunscreen and pack water as the sun is shining and its gonna be a hot day. We carry on working at the 4 different stations, digging, building cement forms, cutting and bending rebar. Some children are around but most have left the school grounds for the day as they were there at 7 to write exams and are done for the day. Some of the younger kids are very curious about what we are doing, and over the course of the morning, they begin to join in and help in a number of ways. Conversations ensue and the group as a whole is making amazing progress with their Spanish. I however am not nearly as conversant or skilled as many of the teens are and have to keep asking " how do you say......". Thankfully they are very patient with me . A young boy about 7 takes a liking to me and the rebar cutting task and so Oscar becomes my helper and we enjoy working together for the remainder of the morning. During break time the children and the group enjoy some volleyball together and at one point our group shares a line dance demonstration which everyone enjoys.

At noon we pack up , go to the boat and head back to minga lodge for lunch . Around where the boat docks, children are jumping from trees and rocks into the river to cool off. Luckily for us, the breeze as the boat speeds up the river serves to cool us as well. It has become a tradition that as soon as we get on the boat, singing ensues for the 30 min trip home.

After lunch we head out on our jungle hike led by Roberto, a local resident and guide with the lodge. We begin by hiking uphill for 240 steps and as we reach the top we find another incredible view. The air is dense, humid and hot though the trees provide respite from the hot sun. Roberto talks to us of the different kinds of plants, the destruction of amazon rainforest, cultural uses for the various different plants and the way traditional hunting and harvesting happens in this area. He also demonstrates for us the way palms are used for shelter, basket making etc. We are taught about the shallow and poor soil composition that results in very shallow roots for most trees and vegetation . Less than 1/2 a meter and one is into a clay based composition. We learn about trees that strangle other trees and the life cycle of many of the plants in the jungle .
We hike for about 2 1/2 hours and eventually we have to descend down some very muddy and slippery paths resulting in several spills and muddy individuals by the end - including me ! The first task back at the lodge is to wash out the mud and hope the pants dry by morning, which can be a challenge in this very humid climate.

Just before supper, the storm clouds blow in and we get a wild storm of wind and rain that I can feel soaking my back as we eat supper. The food has been really quite spectacular with the use of local ingredients. Tonight we have a soup made with plantains and beans, a seveche made with palm hearts, tomatoes, onions, spices and baked plantain chips for dipping, grilled eggplant and rice.

Following supper we engage in a process of deepening our understanding of a Minga. This is a local custom where the community gathers regularly to discuss and make decisions about community priorities. A minga can last for several hours or a whole day and into the evening depending on the topic. A consensus is built over that period of time and when the decision is finally made, everyone owns the decisions and then contributes financially and with time to accomplish the goal or project set forth.

The project we are working on in Bella Vista is the result of several of these meetings with Me toWe representatives who worked with the community to achieve this kind of partnership and commitment . Their working philosophy is well thought out and respectful of the country and communities they are in and have avoided many of the traps of traditional development projects where community ownership is not created. The mission of this organization is quite clear and has parallels with what the United Church overseas partnerships and mission work seeks to accomplish as well. Meeting community identified needs while seeking to create conditions for justice to flourish .

To bed we go as another thunderstorm rolls in and it rains solid through out the night. Average rainfall in this region is 4 meters per year.

It takes a whole village

Up early this morning to ready ourselves for our initiation to the project we will be working on and the philosophy behind Free the Children and the Me to We projects. The community we will be visiting is Bella Vista, a small community along the amazon river ( of which there is a multitude) . This community is one which other communities children come to for school. About 82 children study at this school. However, a number of the class rooms have started to disintegrate due to the climate and we are going to be working with the community members to build three new class rooms.

The partnership philosophy that Free the Children has is that the community as a whole must be empowered in the process and they are expected to contribute 10% of the cost of the project and a minga ( community work party) must also participate and work side by side with us. Our project with Bella Vista is the first one for this community and their first experience with Me to We. We are given extra preparation about what our presence will mean and possible interpretations and expectations of us. We don our steel toed rubber boots, hard hats, work gloves and goggles, rain gear, water jugs and head up river for 35 mins to the community.

We arrive amidst a soccer tournament and villagers are all around. We exchange greetings as we head to the work site. We begin to receive an orientation to the site just as the rain starts to fall ( we re in the midst of rainy season). We move undercover for the rest of the instructions as the wind howls, thunder crashes and a torrential rainstorm begins. Within the hour it dies down enough for us to head outside and begin work digging 1 meter sq. holes for pilings, creating cement forms for these pilings, cutting and bending rebar to go into these foundational pilings. By lunchtime we are all soaked and we head back to our camp for lunch and to dry off.

Two hours later we head back to work again at the same tasks for the afternoon. It isn't raining now and in fact the sun comes out for a little while. Community children gather round, some passing us nails, other watching curiously. The local men work with the architect to make sure they understand the design and next steps and they guide our work as well. By 5 pm we have accomplished a solid piece of work as we clean and pack up the site.

The boat ride back up the river is filled with songs and laughter. We arrive at Minga lodge at 6 and have an hour to shower etc till dinner at 7 followed by Spanish classes. Our day ends at 9:15 and folks head back to their rooms to chill out for a bit. Power ends at 10 and we tuck ourselves into our beds with our bug nets as sounds of critters, bugs and falling rain send us to sleep.

No photos with today's blog as Me to We policy is for no work camp photos to be taken untill the relationships in the community are built and it feels natural and permission is granted by those we are working side by side with.

Amazon adventure - pt 1

I am feeling better as the day begins though I stick with tea to start my 8 hour bus ride down to the amazon region. The trip is one long windy road after another as we follow the most lush and incredible scenery downhill. Waterfalls cascade into raging rivers, snow capped volcanoes rise in the distance, lush green plants, vines and all manner of floral erupt before our eyes. It is surreal at moments and is such a privilege to be on this journey.

What is also amazing is that there are houses nestled in among the bushes and every so often a small village appears as well. For example, halfway there we stop in the middle of nowhere and pick up 13 pizzas for our lunch . They are the best pizza I've had in a long time too!. At Tena, the road quality changes abruptly and we find ourselves on gravel roads, sometimes very narrow ones. Finally we arrive at the edge of the Napo river where we board a long boat that will take us down the river to the Mingo lodge. This place was once a holiday destination lodge for those wanting to visit the Amazon, but has since been sold to Me to We. It's a lovely place that far exceeds the expectations of the group or me. A warm welcome awaits us, with a cinnamon beverage, fried plantain chips and an extraordinary view of the river. The diversity and richness of the flora and fauna is stunning as I walk through the paths. A parrot named Yolanda has taken up residence here as well and she is quite demanding. A tarantula that the teens have name Delilah is up at the peak of the dining hall. As night falls, it gets pitch black and the air is filled with sounds...crickets, cicada's, frogs, large flying insects, and many other yet to be identified creature sounds. I am excited about the upcoming night time jungle tour in a few days.

Quito

Two days of travel including a night in Toronto, finds me arriving very late in Quito. An hour bus ride takes us to a quaint hotel and we finally find a bed at 1am to which I am very glad to crawl into.

We begin our tour of old Quito with a delightful indigenous woman who is a traditional healer and shaman. She is full of energy and stories and is anxious to help us see this city and country through her eyes. She introduces us to traditional healing tea, passes arounds samples of dried herbs and plants and talks about the connections between these practices and traditional spirituality. We then go to an amazing museum of indigenous spirituality when artifacts dating back to 1300 bce show spirals, labyrinths, burial practices and a belief in the spiral nature of life and rebirth. These are the kinds of things Joseph Campbell highlight in his work of finding the tremendous interconnections between ancient religious traditions and our modern myths. Carl Jung had also made similar observations in his alchemy works stating that the Mandela ( or spiral) was an ancient symbol that transcended time, culture and consciousness. This spiritual museum certainly provided further evidence of this conclusion .

The rest of the morning is spent walking uphill to a church and along the streets. One can certainly feel the effects of being in a high altitude while doing such. We board our bus which takes us to a hilltop where we can see an almost panoramic view of the hills and valleys below where Quito is nestled in. The roads through the city are very hilly, steeper than San Francisco but with similar cobblestone.

After lunch up there we head to the equator on an hour long bus ride ( on which i start to feel quite nauseous) and on our tour we learn more about indigenous peoples and tribes in that area, their burial traditions. Like Egypt I am again struck at how central death and life after death questions so dominate religious traditions around the world.

We get to experiment with a variety of things while standing on the equator, from telling time, to shadow positioning, experiments with water that flows clockwise south of the equator but when you move the basin to north of the equator it spirals the opposite direction. A variety of other experiments and insights are fun for this group of teens I'm traveling with. Unfortunately a combination of the altitude and bus ride sends me to bed for the night while they head out to supper .

Rest will hopefully make the eight hour bus ride to the Amazon tomorrow bearable.

Off to Ecuador

Two months have now gone by ( rather quickly I might add) and I'm now ready to embark on my next leg of Sabbatical Travel.  This time I will be traveling with a group of high school students (including my eldest daughter Hannah) with the Craig Keilburger's  ME to WE foundation to Ecuador. Check out their website for background information ( www.metowe.com )

This experience mixes volunteer work with exposure to the issues the people in Ecuador live everyday.  A look at the economic, social and interconnectedness with our part of the world is all part of the experience.  In addition, there will be a chance to see some incredible and diverse aspects of Nature.

My reasons for going on this trip are threefold:
1)  Its an opportunity to have a very unique experience with my daughter who will be going into Gr12 in the fall and making some important life decisions.
2) I'm interested in how this highly regarded organization uses global educational exposure tours to have an impact on the lives of youth and young adults.  How does it compare to "mission trips"?
3) I'm excited to learn about the culture and the people of Ecuador and learn about the interconnectedness of our lives.

For those of you who were following and reading my journey to the middle east in April,  welcome back.  For those of you who are joining for the first time, past reflections about that trip are still available online if you wish to see them as well .

Thank you for taking this Journey with me.  Internet access for this trip will be very intermittent so I will attempt to post everyday but it may days inbetween before I can access the internet.

Hasta Luego

To the Mediterranean Sea and back

Our day starts extra early as we have a 3 hour drive this morning to get ourselves to Alexandria- the city named after Alexander the Great, what used to be the main port city for the Greeks and Romans coming to this part of the world. Its' population is 15 million and its the second largest city in the country of Egypt whose population is over 90 million. Our drive takes us back through dessert like topography past huge fruit farms, fertilizer industries, a huge technology centre with corporate offices with all the big names, and the large prison complex out in the middle of nowhere where ex president Mubarak, his family members and political allies are being held.

Driving on the roads in Egypt is itself a major adventure. Speed limits, lanes, directions - these are all western ideologies that don't apply. At times we can be going down a one way street and we will find ourselves facing on coming traffic anyways as such rules are meant to be bent. Unless you are aggressive you will go no where in traffic. Trucks and bicycles are loaded to overflowing and people cram into buses, in between cargo in pickup trucks or simply hanging from a back bumper as needed. Motorcycles are common with between 2-4 riders on each. I never once saw a helmet on anyone as they swerve through and among the traffic. On this trip we have an armed security guard that the travel company has sent with us in case there is trouble on the road. - over protective from my standpoint as I have not felt ill at ease at all during my time here.

We visit the site of the lighthouse Cleopatra had built. It was destroyed 3 times due to earthquakes but some of the remaining stones have been incorporated into the new building that commemorates it. It has an amazing view of the city of Alexandria and of the Mediterranean sea. We also visit the catacombs used by the Romans to bury their dead. In their attempts to integrate and honor some of the traditions of the Egyptians, these catacombs are unique because they found Egyptian style paintings of the mummification process and ashes within the tombs. No writing about the persons life was found of the walls as they did not hold to a belief in resurrection. As well, about 300 mummies were found in the wall holes where usually only ashes in containers were found. A large room is near by where relatives would come to visit the tombs on the anniversary of the death. Plates, glasses etc would all be broken at the end of the meal in good Greek fashion to ensure good luck. These catacombs go down 5 stories deep. Amazing but alas no pictures allowed.

Following lunch we visit the Egyptian library, the largest library in the world. After a large competition from architectural design firms where some 1400 submissions were made, a Denmark firm is hired and with the help of UNESCO, it is built. It has 8 stories for books, multi media and computer terminals with enough space for 2000 plus reading/comp patrons at any one time. It has enough space for 8 million books though at this time 1.5 million fill the shelves while they work to add 15% to the collection each year. All languages are represented here. It also has 2 amazing machines that will copy and bind a 300 pg book including cover in under 5 minutes .

We then return to Cairo for packing and saying goodbye . This will be my last post related to this trip. Thank you all for sharing this journey with me. I'll have more to reflect on in relation to this learning experience that I shall endeavor to share in a variety of ways. I will post some other reflections from time to time on other insights I'm having while on sabbatical and then I will try to do something similar blogging wise when Hannah and I head to Ecuador at the end of June with the Me to We foundation. Looking forward being back home with loved ones and friends !

A balloon with a view

Up at 3:30 am, we head by bus to the waters edge, cross on a boat, load onto another bus and make our way to a field near the edge of the dessert. By now it is 5 am and we climb into the basket of the hot air balloon and ascend into the air just in time to see the sunrise. The air is cool but the heat off the burners more than keeps us warm. I've wanted to take a balloon ride for some time now and I'm thrilled to have the opportunity to do so in this location. Ballon rides have only just begun to be offered again after the tragic accident a few months ago.

We fly on the edge of the valley of the kings, the Hatshepsut temple, remnants of Ramsey's temple, wheat fields, sugar cane fields. We float along and across the Nile river with fishermen in their boats below. Our ride is about 1.25 hrs with a soft landing. The perfect first experience and exhilarating in many ways. We head back to the boat to check out and board the bus to visit the Karnak temple.

This temple is the largest ever found and covers 62 acres of land. Construction of the temple cover the dynasties of 10 pharaoh's family lines and archeological evidence shows that materials and different parts of the site span of about 2500 years of this temple being built and used through the many phases of it's construction. The columns in this temple are the largest anywhere. The encryptions, the architecture, the statues and the Oblisks create a sense of awe that one can certainly see would have contributed to the ancient sense of reverence and awe. I can see why we visit this one last, as while the other temples are equally impressive in their own right, they would be anticlimactic after seeing this one.

The Luxor temple is less than 5 km away for the Karnak temple and it is the temple that was the home of the wife to the god of the Karnak temple. They are linked by road that was lined with 1600 sphinx statues on either side. Parts of many of them still remain to this day. The Luxor temple though was buried under sand for a number of centuries but its excavation has revealed much about its history. During the post Constantinian era, the hieroglyphics were plastered over and Italian type Christian frescos were painted on top. Remnants of these can also be seen but most have crumbled away to reveal the original Egyptian carved limestone underneath. Ramses II was mostly responsible for the building of this temple and several statues of him also grace the grounds. It was said that the two ages would visit one another's home for a holiday each year- 15 days in each place.

We spend the remainder of the afternoon in Luxor relaxing and reading before our night train takes us back to Cairo for the day. Its been a long day having been up 22 hours. The trip is almost over and it has been an incredible journey but I can tell that parts of my mind have drifted home to people and places I love and am ready to return to. A day of rest tomorrow to recuperate from the overnight train ride. Then off early to Alexandria for our last day in Egypt.

Valley of the Kings

Today we stay in Luxor and disembark early In order to make our way to the valley of the kings. I guess I didn't pay as much attention in grade six when we studied ancient Egypt because I was under the allusion that I would be seeing an array of pyramids here. But no! Instead in this valley, accessible by only one entrance, are limestone hills where hundreds of tombs are tunneled into the mountains and are still being discovered. Most of them when opened had little if any contents in them, having been robbed some centuries earlier. The only exception was Tutankhamen tomb whose contents I described in an earlier post. What is incredible is the depth of these tunnels and caverns, the polished limestone walls, the drawings and descriptions in detailed color and the encasement containers and rooms at the bottom. Stories and instructions from the " Book of the dead" are also on these walls as instructions to the king to follow when he returns from death.

These tombs were begun when a Pharaoh took the throne and the depth depended on how long his life and rule was. The workers lived in a small town nearby and were part of a community where their sole purpose was the building of these tombs. When they got word that the king was dying, they had to then hurry to finish the tomb endpoint cavern, sometimes leaving some of the descending walls undecorated. Only the family was allowed to bring the treasures and the body over so that no others would know the location of the tomb and more importantly where the mummified body lay. If anything happened to the body, then their would be no next life for the Pharaoh. Period. We were allowed No cameras on this site which was hard for me as the walls inside we're incredible. Thus no pictures of the inside to post for now till I can scan some in later.

From here we go to Hatshetsut's (the man queen) temple which was complete destroyed by her stepson along with any statues and depictions of her after her death. The temple has been reconstructed on the bases of the remnants by the polish government beginning in the 19 th century and continuing today. Sections of the original have full color renderings that withstood the test of time. It's a mammoth structure the basically backs on to the valley of the kings. Her mummified remains have recently been identified.

We come back to the boat and hear a lecture along the way about some elements of life in modern day Egypt. An afternoon on deck to soak up some sun and read is followed by some entertainment of a belly dancer and a whirling dervish before supper.

Tomorrow morning some of us will be up very early at 3:30 am in order to return to the valley of the kings for a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the west bank of the Nile! I'm so excited as it will be my first balloon ride which I've always wanted to do.

Down the River Nile

We begin our journey down the river Nile, which is the life blood for Egypt. On either side of the Nile is green fields, palm trees, sugar cane, and small farm plots. Not far from the edges of this green is simple dessert. Dry, harsh, hot dessert. Before the dam, there were seasons where the river dried up and communities would perish. This reality is reflected in the temple life along the river.

Our first stop is Kom Ombo where we visit the temple share by two gods Sobek and Haerorsis. Gods of fertility and medicine. Sobek's incarnation was in the Alligator and so this temple had a pit where an alligator was kept and fed and offerings made to until it died. Then the alligator was mummified and place unto the catacombs below and a new alligator would be brought up for the waters of the nile and the process would begin again. Haerorsis was the god of medicine and on the walls are descriptions of operations for cancer, surgical tools, anesthetics, etc of a very advance civilization.

We return to the boat and continue down the river until Edfu where we visit one of the best preserved cult temples dedicated to Horus . This Temple is massive and it is hard to convey the scale of it in pictures. Here we see some good examples of color, design, destruction again from the crusades and then ottoman empires, and a very good sense of the worship practices. A statue of less that a meter was what would eventually be housed in the inner most sanctum and would be brought out and paraded at certain times of the year. The huge amount of hieroglyphics and illustrations all over the walls is an incredible testament to the power of myth and story telling in the development of culture. The role the Greeks played in resurrecting these temples as a way of cooperatively bringing the egyptians into the control and oversight of their expanding empire is a testament to alternative ways to dealing with integration and assimilation instead of war and annihilation.

To stand in places where many ancients have walked, worked, imagined, worship, struggled and prayed is a truly humbling experience and I am grateful for the opportunity to be here and one cannot do a trip like this without realizing how privileged we are to live where we do and have the resources to do these kinds of things. Often on this trip I've encountered sellers whose things I do not need or wish to carry but I buy simply to support their small enterprise and to give some hope in very hard times. Egypt's economy is in a tough place since the uprising and many people are suffering and despairing in the new presidents lack of positive action since taking power.