Bethlehem: eyes open wide

Our day begins with visiting the church of the nativity which is next door to the Franciscan pilgrim house that we are staying at . The site of this cave was attested by several 1st and 2nd C writers But it is not until Helena (mother of Constantine) that a basilica is built in 327. Since that time it has had an extensive history or renovation and rebuilds. What is most fascinating to me is the veneration and superstition that is attached to what scholars agree is a mythic birth story construction around this "historical" site. 3 major denomination groups have jurisdiction over this site: armenians, orthodox, and roman catholics. In the morning (and several times during the day) there are set ritual times that liturgies are done down underneath where the cave is. Tradition says that if either of the 3 groups fail to show up to perform their mass, their right is gone for ever. The ritual ends with a sweeping and washing of the floors and steps around the holy places underneath. BUT each faith group can only touch/sweep/wash the small area they are responsible for. The ultimate in territorialism. Fascinating and sad all at the same time . Picture is of the small opening in the outside wall that leads to the basilica.

Bethlehem is in the west bank and in section A which means that it is under Palestinian control for both rule of law and order and in control of building etc. Security to cross the wall between Israel and the west bank is huge . Palestinians born here must have a special permit to cross. Most are not allowed to leave this area. If a Palestinian wishes to leave the country they must do so through Jordan. Within these walls however are sections B and C too. In section C (which makes up almost 70% of the west bank) Israel maintains control over the movements, rule of law, building permits etc. These sections are where Jewish settlements have been built, the wall built over top of Palestinian neighborhoods and basic human rights denied .

We met with two Palestinian peace groups today who shared their stories of oppression, alienation and denial of the most fundamental human rights. The Tent of Nations (www.tentofnations.org) is an organization founded to protect land from Israeli confiscation and to provide an opportunity for Palestinian children and women to deal with the trauma of living under occupation and dreaming of a future time of peace and prosperity for all. Painted on the rock outside the entrance to their land are the words "We refuse to be enemies " . An amazing witness and protest in the face of intense pressure. This land is in section C and is surrounded by 6 settlements. Their road had been blocked from one direction by massive rocks dumped by the military. No buildings permits, thus no buildings are allowed. No electricity is permitted to service this land nor running water. In response they have created a sustainable life by living in caves underground, collecting rain water in cisterns and making solar panels to create energy. The many ins and outs of their lives is hard to convey except to say they're not being dealt with fairly.

Next we visited the WI'AM Palestinian conflict resolution center (www.alaslah.org) where similar stories of oppression were told and projects explained. The wall in the picture cuts through the land belonging to this Palestinian center. It is surrounded by a refugee camp that has been there since 1948 and 4 jewish settlements that keep encroaching closer and closer . What impressed me most was their motto. "We seek to bring the oppressor not to their knees but to their senses". Human dignity was a cornerstone to all they sought to do, teach and provide basic project.

A full day for head and heart, a mixture of intense sadness and inspirational hope and dignity in the midst of such oppression .