Jerusalem : walking the wall

Today's post will be a fairly short reflection as it was an unstructured day . As an extrovert I mostly enjoy exploring with others and sharing perspectives. The group that I'm traveling with are mostly from Ottawa and many of them are at the same united church there. They all connected prior to leaving so i was coming into a group already formed. They have all gone out of their way to include me and to make me feel welcome. They have been a great group to travel with and I am grateful for their kindness. However, on this free day I was feeling the need to strike out on my own and simply wander and see where it took me .

I started by hopping on the public transit rail tram and just rode it for a while until a new area caught my attention, got off and wandered around . Occasionally I would see a street name that I recognized and I'd wander down that for a while until I got distracted again. It's interesting to see what things from the West get imported to this part of the world, fashion wise, product wise and of course "culture" wise. I took a picture of a McDonald's menu in Hebrew - Yuke ! Of all the things ! I had just been lamenting the day earlier that the fast food here , like falafels, is so much tastier than what we serve.

Did some banking and then headed to the Jaffa gate of the wall surrounding the old city. Wandered inside the old city for a bit among the shops and various merchants and then went up on top of the wall and walled along the top of the wall from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus gate taking pictures, reading historical signs and notes and getting a birds eye view of things. Sights, smells and sounds have a way of embedding themselves. One of the big challenges here is garbage . The Palestinian areas are not served well with collection and there is little if anything in the way of recycling . Because of that, garbage is often thrown where ever and it gets blown around, attracts stray cats, can be smelly and is an eyesore.

Struck up the odd conversation with folks while sitting and observing and carried on so till mid afternoon when my camera battery died. Headed back to the hotel for a time of writing and reflecting before our lecture on Islam at 5 pm .

Dinner at 7 and as I was heading to the debriefing, a colleague from Winnipeg dropped in to see if I was around. We had a brief chat and will perhaps share a drink together before leaving Jerusalem . It was good to have some unstructured time today.

Jerusalem: The Holy City

We are up early this morning so that we can be in the line up to get into the dome on the rock as it is only open for 3 hours in the morning for non Muslims to enter the site. There is huge security going into the site and we have to line up and wait for over an hour in light rain to get through security. Women must cover their heads and there are both Israeli security and Muslim security everywhere. Non-Muslims cannot enter either the temple or the dome. We walk around the court yard which takes up a sizable amount of the temple mount. A man puts his arm around his wife for a photo with the dome in the background. Immediately out of nowhere a temple security man comes and separates them for it is improper for them to touch one another up here.
The dome covers the spot that Muslims claim Mohamed was taken up into heaven although the Koran does to actually specify this as the site. Underneath this site is likely to be the remains of the inner sanctum of the second temple of Judaism and access to this has been denied and it is a point of great contention .

We move off the mount and walk through some parts of the old city and head to the western wall sometimes referred to as the "wailing wall", though this is not the preferred term for Jews. There is a small section of the wall that is partitioned off that women can go to but the majority of the wall is for men only. All different strips of Judaism visit this wall, make prayers and supplications and place slips of paper between the rocks. With head covered I go to the wall to pray and to leave prayers of hope for peace and healing in this broken land. Again there is an energy that moves me and stirs something within- perhaps simply a connection to a lot of history, perhaps something more. A few bar mitzvahs are underway and they happen near the fence partition so that the female relatives can stand on chairs and peer over and throw sweets.

From here we head to the archeological dig that has unearthed different parts of the temple dating back to the time of Herod and through to the year 70 when the temple is razed to the ground by the Romans . You can see spots they have unearthed where the walkway is smashed from the large temple stones that were pushed over the edge and remain there in piles as well. Stones in this temple are up to 9 times the size and weight of those that build the pyramids. A marvel of construction. There is a huge sense of the loss and grief that accompanies this loss of the temple. The stones seem to cry out still and is an embedded source of grief for Jews in this part of the world. We head round to the front steps where it is likely that Jesus at some point with the rest of the crowds each year, would have made the journey up to enter the temple and perhaps either listened to passionate teachers or perhaps taught himself a time or two . It was customary in Jesus day for jews to come to the temple about three times a year so it is likely he was here quite a number of times in his life. What we do know is that on his last journey to this temple he created enough of a ruckus to get himself into trouble with the authorities (more on that when we take the holy week walk around the mount and temple grounds ) .

After a lunch break we head to the Shrine of the Book and the Model of the ancient city and temple at the time of Jesus.This is a massive model that really puts into perspective the size and scope of the old city and the temple . The shrine of the book contains some of the fragments of the books found at Qumran including a complete 7meter long scroll of Isaiah . It's truly amazing to see it and some of the actual jars that preserved these so well for 2000 years. They also give us great insight into the life and beliefs of the Essene movement that Jesus may have had a connection to and been influenced by at one time.

Back at the Hotel we meet up with one of the founding rabbi's of the group Rabbis For Human Rights. He speaks to us of their involvement with Palestinians, the army, the court system and other justice groups to work for justice and peace in this land . His parents were both survivors of the holocaust and he knows first hand how that trauma continues to shape the ideology of Israel. He speaks of a rise of conservatism in the youth of Israel and he does not see any short term or easy solutions either. The group is made up of over 1000 rabbis from different sects in Judaism including orthodox and ultra orthodox. Each has also encountered resistance from their congregations at times and almost all of them have been imprisoned at least once for demonstrating against unjust actions of the state.

Another full day with much to reflect on and integrate. It will be good to have an unstructured day to wander around the old city and beyond tomorrow.

The layers of civilizations are many!

We leave the Galilee very early this morning as we have a full day ahead. First stop is Maggido, the site of 7000 years of 25 continuous civilizations. This area served as a bridge between Egypt and Persia and the Mediterranean and who had control over it was very important. You could see at some areas of the site the layers of successive ruins with Sand in between. One of the unique things about this site as well is the alter found that served as a place of sacrifice and worship successively through many different civilizations albeit in different ways yet a testament to humanity's ongoing attempts to understand themselves in relation to the divine.

However, what is annoying about the place, is that is also the site the christian fundamentalists believe will be the site of the battle of Armageddon - a theological construct that is both ridiculous and offensive. There is also woven into the fabric of this site some more Israeli propaganda that is troublesome.

From here we head to the amazing city of Cesarea Philipi another of Herod the greats massive structures in the creation of this port city. When he finished it it had a ocean barrier wall and became a central hub for trade and boat traffic . Population swelled to over 100'000 which was a huge size I those days. It included port, huge markets, a massive palace overlooking and on top of the water, a race track for chariot and other sports and a massive theatre where a variety of artistic shows were performed. Because it was on the ocean, fresh water was challenging to find and so he had a raised series of aqueducts build to transport the water over 20 km distance. Like Meggido, successive empires took it over and either destroyed it or rebuilt it . The remnants that remain are many though and it is awe inspiring to see and comprehend actually.

From there we journey to the ancient city of Joppa. This is also a port city dating back to about 3000 bce. Even Nepolian tried to conquer this city and failed. We wind through many a street, taking photos, hearing stories from the guide and attempting to pour one more fact about an ancient civilization into our brains for the day. Two out of three of these cities I knew nothing about until today. Totally overwhelming . We arrive I Jerusalem which shall be our home base for the next week. We are staying just outside the Damascus gate of the old city wall in the east quarter . This is the Palestinian quarter and a Palestinian hotel. An early start in the morning for another full day.

Nazareth

Can anything good come out of Nazareth ? Such is the question asked in the Gospels in reference to Jesus and his ministry. While it is highly unlikely that Jesus was born in Bethlehem, it is likely that he was born and raised in a little village of Nazareth just a short distance outside a larger center called Sephoris. it is also likely that Jesus and his father as trades persons had jobs they would go to in that center as well.

So it was with some skepticism that I went to the Village of Jesus experience on our return trip to Nazareth . It's sort of like a "heritage village" experience with sets and people dressed in period costumes trying to contextualize what life was like during Jesus time. Most of the group liked it though I found it sucky at times. It was authentic in terms of the buildings and roughness of the landscape. There were no smooth roads or paths. Everything was rocky and steep. And the daily tasks of living were well represented. The meal they served at the end was both authentic and tasty. However, some of the theological and biblical links I could have lived without.

In addition we visited a well ( and the orthodox church built over it) that was likely the source of water for the village during Jesus day. We wandered around the old city of Nazareth which now has grown to almost 100 000 and experienced the shops , the markets, the sights and smells of life today .

We headed back to Tiberius and along the way we stop at Cana to pick up wine and we also get a chance to see the river Jordon for the first time close to where it flows into the sea of galilee. Back to the hotel for a rest and for dinner, wine and conversation that evening. It was foggy and cool so no swimming today . Tomorrow we leave the Galilee and head to Jerusalem .

To the sea of Galilee

Woke up in Nazareth this morning to the sounds of bells ringing every half hour as it was Sunday morning and thus the sabbath for Christians living in one of the larger cities in Israel ( about 100,00 compared to about 500 in Jesus day ). About 25% of the city is Christian and the rest is Muslim. Above the city of Nazareth hemming it in is a Jewish incorporated town of about 35000 called upper Nazareth. This has placed inordinate pressure on Nazareth for land use and resources. Many Jews though have businesses or shop in Nazareth proper. This makes sabbath varied and confusing as the Muslim sabbath starts Thursday night, Jews start Friday night and Christians Sunday. One can never know then what businesses or sites will be open or closed which day. Because of this we visit only one church in the morning ( the grotto/cave site of Mary's family home where Jesus may have grown up) and we will return here again in tomorrow for other activities and. Interactions .

From here we drive towards the sea of Galilee, about a 2 days walk away in the time of Jesus and an hours drive for us, We stop first at the mount of the beatitudes where Jesus is said to have delivered the sermon on the mount. It's the first time of all the places that we have visited that I've felt connected to the land and the location and the vision that Jesus was trying to communicate with those who had come to hear him. The site stands in much different contrast to many others that we have visited. The view toward the sea of Galilee is spectacular.

From there we go to Capernum . This is the city where Jesus spent a fair bit of time at Peter's mother inlaw's place . We tour this archeological site and learn more about the area, it's history and customs. Then we cross the sea by boat to the other side to Tiberius . Where we get off is the site of the 2000 year old fishing boat that they unearthed about 20 years ago and has been preserved in a museum. We head into town , an almost exclusively Jewish center now and one of the 4 most prominent Jewish cities in Israel . It was also once the site of a roman city built by Herod by the hot springs as a place of treatment for his arthritis.

We arrive at the first Jewish hotel we have stayed in and have a leisurely late afternoon in the sun and I get the chance to swim in the sea of Galilee. We spend the evening trying to unpack more about our time in Jenin and the 5 key issues in dispute: access to water; right of return for Palestinians, the capital city of Jerusalem , the Jewish settlements and the "green line" . We debate the various merits of the one state verses two state solutions in light of these 5 key issues. Obviously there are no easy answers.

Jericho: if only the walls could come a tumblin' down.

We begin our day in Jericho - a city that was frequented by Jesus both in person and in his parables . According to the most up to date scholarship, Jericho is likely to be one of the oldest places of inhabit life on the continent. Digs reveal successive buildings, destruction, rebuilding and renovation over a 10,000 year history. What is clear is that there was NO city of the Canaanites there when Joshua came into the promised land . Such detail in the story is likely to have been a later addition when the story was being told - an amalgamation of details as such . Driving around though, it is clear that this city is very old. It's in the midst of the dessert built beside an oasis spring . This water source is extremely valuable and is under guard 24/7. This city is in the "a"zone and therefore under Palestinian control. It is like a palm springs place for Palestinians and some Israelies who come for heat, sea air and a pleasant holiday place on weekends and winter holidays as its a sharp contrast to the weather in Jerusalem and yet is less than an hours drive away. The commerce in the area reflects such.

For most of the "holy stone kissers" ( the term used to describe Christians and others who come to the holy land to see the places Jesus was), they come to visit the "sycamore tree where Zacheaus saw Jesus". ( like this 400 yr old tree is the one! ha!) and just a bit outside, the mount of temptation , "the place Jesus was tempted in the dessert". It astounds me how utterly ridiculous and naive some visitors are about such things. Helena, Constantine's mother, ascribed many of these places as holy sites in order that those who had come on pilgrimages to this area of the world would have something to see. And while somewhere on these hills in this region likely contain the place where Jesus discerned his calling and fasted and prayed, there is certainly NO WAY we could ever know the exact spot of much of the stories in his ministry. Many of these religious tours completely miss the other critical elements of history and politics in their quest for the "holy stones to kiss"

From here we journey northward along the Jordan river route though you cannot see the river. It is not a large flowing river as I was often under the impression of, but rather more like a stream especially at this time of year. This would have been the route that Jews in Jesus day would have taken from Nazareth to avoid going through Samaritan territory. After a bit we veer off and head toward Jennin, a village that was a large hot spot during the second intifada and which has within it a refugee camp there since 1948. It is one of the places that the Israel government does not want us seeing and so access is challenging and we go there under the guise that we are visiting the church of the ten lepers ( an orthodox church that was built around a grotto/ cave where lepers where once known to gather around a specific well in the region - may actually have historical precedence) Most tourists do not come to this region as it is seen as dangerous. Here we visit a theatre company that has been working since the first intifada to give voice to the anger and other emotions of Palestinians in this region. Their work is very edgy, eye opening and was started by an Israeli woman who was part of the army in 1967 but later became a huge supporter of the Palestinians and an opponent of the occupation. We watched documentary footage from various period during her work here including footage of the Israeli army coming through this village and bulldozing streets, gun fights, interviews with families etc. You can still see the bullet holes in the houses and buildings along the streets. Some buildings have been rebuilt, others haven't. We stayed longer than we had intended as we are invited to watch a play that is being launched that day for the community. The founding director's son took over the work of this playhouse and was assassinated about a year ago.

We also visit a fair trade cooperative of palestinian olive oil and other related products. It is a very hopeful sign and a source of great pride for those involved. From here we leave and make our way to Nazareth for the night. Because we will be leaving zone A of the west bank occupied territory we have to cross the green line and the barrier wall. This check point is long (50 mins wait) and we are pulled aside and questioned for being in this area. We lie and say we are holy stone kissers who have just been to the leper church. We pass on and spend the night at a convent guest house in Nazareth.

In to the dessert

Today found us leaving Bethlehem and heading into the dessert along the road Jesus often talked about from Jerusalem to Jericho . The topography changes so quickly and suddenly you are out into the dry hills and arid landscape. There is nothing friendly about the topography. It is constant hills and valleys and unforgiving . As we drive by Bedouin nomads I wonder at such a harsh existence.

We travel to the dead sea, an area once held by the Jordanians but was annexed by Israel in the six day war. Remnants of the Jordanian Army are scattered about among the planted date palm groves- a huge industry . Pits are removed before selling so that they cannot be grown by anyone else as competition.

Following the dead sea we make our way to Masada - a fort/palace built by king Herod around 31bce. It was a place of retreat build high upon a mountainous rock plateau that could be used as a fortified military retreat or simply a holiday palace. It's store house held enough food and water to sustain 1000 people for 4 years. An incredible architectural and technological marvel. Abandoned (mostly) after Herods death in 4bce it was taken over by Jewish rebels after the destruction of Jerusalem and its temple around the year 70ce . They and their families were there about 3 years until the roman troops surrounded them. They began to build a ramp I order to siege the rebels. Over a 5 month period they held them off while watching the building of this ramp. When It was clear that they Romans would breach the walls the next morning, the 960 residents were part of a mass murder suicide by the Jewish leaders so that they would not become slaves to the Romans. This has become an important part of the Israeli identity and new soldiers are sworn I at the top of Masada before they serve in the army. A propaganda film about Nobel character of the rebels and their refusal to be conquered by any oppressor is shown to everyone before you enter . This site was high on my list of things to see while here so I enjoyed every minute of being there though was disappointed that we were rushed for time as I would have like to have hiked up instead of taking the tram.

From there we journey to Qumran - the discovery site of the Dead sea scrolls. Remnants of the essence movement have been unearthed below the caves in the cliffs where the scrolls were found encased in jars by accident when a Bedouin shepherd was looking for a lost goat. 11 caves in all have been found to have within them about 900 scrolls or fragments of such . Some of them are ancient copies of biblical books but most are writings of the Essene movement - their beliefs and rituals . The caves are amazing to see and the imagination is certainly engaged by the site.

With the sun then working hard to peak out beneath the cloud cover, we headed for a dip in the dead sea. The salination is about 33% and it is impossible not to float. This area is 400 meters below sea level. Oxygen levels are high and the healing properties of the sea are espoused my many so there were lots of people to be found. It was a very interesting and refreshing experience . From there we headed back to Jericho to sleep for the night.